Don't remove the allen screws if you plan to use the driver, if you disassemble it beyond removing the cover and diaphragm, it will lose most of it's magnetic charge.
have never tried this before , besides the allen screws how do i seperate the housing as i want to get it going for the project this week.
with friends we are setting a 210 replica with 515b and a 803 horn it will be a mono system with a mono cart to play those mono records all this in a large basement in new york city
cant wait and will post pics
Don't remove the allen screws if you plan to use the driver, if you disassemble it beyond removing the cover and diaphragm, it will lose most of it's magnetic charge.
Not all vegetables make good leaders.
i found another 288c with a shifted magnet and was wondering if it was possible as it is the only single i have for the experiment as the other pair i cannot acess till sunday
bowtie where did you hear about magnets loosing charge ? about 30 years ago when i set some jbl boxes on fire due to the woofers crapping out after the fire all i saw was the metal frame of the driver it was in the rain for a good 3 months and i remember taking the magnet out before i put it in the trash
and it might have been week but i still used it to put on car bodies to check if they were filled with bondo etc the original alnico rust gizmo.
Merdy the six allen cap bolts are a legacy of the Lansing field coil drivers. In these early units the top plate/diaphragm/back cover assembly was removed and sent to the factory for servicing. When the permanent magnet 288 driver was introduced the top plate could no longer be removed, so the user-replaceable diaphragm assembly was developed.
If you remove the six cap screws on a 288 and pry up the top plate, nearly all of the magnet charge will be lost. It is certainly possible to do this and repair a driver internally, but then it will have to be recharged before being placed back in service.
About the Allen bolts.....my are rusty on top.....is it possible to remove one at a time to clean that up....and reinstall.......with out damaging the magnetic charge?
I suppose there must be some torque spec to tighten to.
I guess from reading your info....best to just clean the tops of the bolts with-out removing....
You could probably safely remove all but two(left installed on opposite sides of the circumference). I'm not sure about earlier versions, but 60's and 70's large and small format drivers were assembled with a small amount of adhesive such that even with all of the screws removed some fiddling/prying with mildly aggressive force would usually be required to separate the front plate. Bear in mind that a driver that's suffered a fall/significant impact may already be "loose" and i've even had a driver or two with a few of the screws broken right at the front plate/return pot joint from said poor handling(i assume).About the Allen bolts.....my are rusty on top.....is it possible to remove one at a time to clean that up....and reinstall.......with out damaging the magnetic charge?
Not all vegetables make good leaders.
Ok thanks guys i will leave it alone and donate it to any one that needs it provided you pay for shipping and must donate its weight times 2(minimum) to this site( Todd hope this is ok and please abuse me privatly if not)
did the set up last night sadly the 1569 blew a fuse and will have to be checked but as i was tri amping i took out the baby cheeks and just did a twin 515 and a 288c borrowed with the 803 horn
man it was fun listining to mono with an original ortophon mono cart
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